The Free State is South Africa’s most central region, bordering on six provinces and Lesotho, squeezed between the Orange and Vaal Rivers. This province is a major producer of wheat, sunflowers and maize, with mining and chemicals also playing a major role in its economy.
So is tourism. Not surprising, as the Free State is intersected by five major national highways, well-served by rail and air links and has much to offer the curious traveller. The climate and topography varies greatly, with plains to the west and mountains to the east.
Near the mountains, there are a number of small towns, each with something special to offer. They are places to visit and spend some time. There is so much to do that you’ll have to be quite picky.
Don’t rush into a decision. If you’re coming from Johannesburg or Durban on the N3, a good place to sit down and finalise your planning is the Galaxy Roadhouse on the N5 in Harrismith.
It’s just off the N3, a ’50s malt-shopthemed American burger joint with some of the best hamburgers you can get. OK, so there’s pulled pork and pizza, too. It is a place to dawdle, take in the rustic decor and decide where else in the eastern Free State you may want to do something a little unusual.
Begin with Clarens. Everybody goes there, but that’s no reason to avoid it. It is home to one of the more unusual art galleries; in fact, probably the only one of its kind – the Art and Wine Gallery on Main. You’ll find works by established artists (Gregoire Boonzaaier, Marjorie Wallace and more), as well as some of the most exquisite South

African wines. Clearly not a walk in and out, but really a linger-longer.
Before you go, phone Walibri Art Glass in nearby Fouriesburg. Instead of looking at art, here you can create it. You’ll be taught to work in recycled glass. Go for mosaic, make a bowl, or whatever takes your fancy. It’s a craft workshop with a difference.
Not far away, toward Ficksburg, is a venue with a more traditional art workshop: the Malutizicht Lodge.
This will really take time. Four days in fact. There is formal art tuition for beginners, those who want to refresh their techniques or expand their approach. And if you’re not painting, go walking, birding, fishing, play golf or bowls.
Then, a little more off the beaten track is Clocolan. This doesn’t call for a long visit, but it is a must because there is artwork of a different kind, which you may want to buy. And you should, because it is exquisite, different and very useful. Lethoteng Weavers produces hand-woven wall hangings from wool, mohair and cotton – and really beautiful jerseys. Buy one and show off when you get home.
Then on to the last stop – Rosendal and Turksvy Trading. And, no, it’s not about a turksvy (Afrikaans for prickly pear). It specialises in nothing, but has everything: porcelain tea sets, pinball machines, tins, dinner sets, handpainted wooden doors. You’ll need a bakkie if you want to buy some of this stuff. And even if you don’t, this is a fun place to browse and it will leave you wondering how it’s possible that someone in such a small dorpie can collect all this strange stuff, sell it and actually make a living.

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