The Free State is South Africa’s
most central region, bordering
on six provinces and Lesotho,
squeezed between the Orange
and Vaal Rivers. This province is a
major producer of wheat, sunflowers
and maize, with mining and chemicals
also playing a major role in its
economy.
So is tourism. Not surprising, as the
Free State is intersected by five major
national highways, well-served by rail
and air links and has much to offer
the curious traveller. The climate and
topography varies greatly, with plains
to the west and mountains to the east.
Near the mountains, there are a
number of small towns, each with
something special to offer. They are
places to visit and spend some time.
There is so much to do that you’ll have
to be quite picky.
Don’t rush into a decision. If you’re
coming from Johannesburg or Durban
on the N3, a good place to sit down
and finalise your planning is the Galaxy
Roadhouse on the N5 in Harrismith.
It’s just off the N3, a ’50s malt-shopthemed
American burger joint with
some of the best hamburgers you can
get. OK, so there’s pulled pork and
pizza, too. It is a place to dawdle, take
in the rustic decor and decide where
else in the eastern Free State you may
want to do something a little unusual.
Begin with Clarens. Everybody
goes there, but that’s no reason to
avoid it. It is home to one of the more
unusual art galleries; in fact, probably
the only one of its kind – the Art and
Wine Gallery on Main. You’ll find
works by established artists (Gregoire
Boonzaaier, Marjorie Wallace and
more), as well as some of the most
exquisite South
African wines. Clearly not a walk in and out, but really a
linger-longer.
Before you go, phone Walibri Art
Glass in nearby Fouriesburg. Instead
of looking at art, here you can create
it. You’ll be taught to work in recycled
glass. Go for mosaic, make a bowl, or
whatever takes your fancy. It’s a craft
workshop with a difference.
Not far away, toward Ficksburg, is
a venue with a more traditional art
workshop: the Malutizicht Lodge.
This will really take time. Four days
in fact. There is formal art tuition for
beginners, those who want to refresh
their techniques or expand their
approach. And if you’re not painting,
go walking, birding, fishing, play golf or
bowls.
Then, a little more off the beaten
track is Clocolan. This doesn’t call for
a long visit, but it is a must because
there is artwork of a different kind,
which you may want to buy. And
you should, because it is exquisite,
different and very useful. Lethoteng
Weavers produces hand-woven wall
hangings from wool, mohair and
cotton – and really beautiful jerseys.
Buy one and show off when you get
home.
Then on to the last stop – Rosendal
and Turksvy Trading. And, no, it’s not
about a turksvy (Afrikaans for prickly
pear). It specialises in nothing, but has
everything: porcelain tea sets, pinball
machines, tins, dinner sets, handpainted
wooden doors. You’ll need a
bakkie if you want to buy some of this
stuff. And even if you don’t, this is a
fun place to browse and it will leave
you wondering how it’s possible that
someone in such a small dorpie can
collect all this strange stuff, sell it and
actually make a living.